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WY Buckingham Ridge Route - Mt. climbing

mt. climbing icon
Lat: 43.726143
Lng: -110.807587

Marker owner: Brownie

Average user rating for this marker: 3.5

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(2 ratings)

WY Buckingham Ridge Route
Marker Description: Buckingham Ridge
Time to summit and down: Day
Number of Pitches: 10
Difficulty: 5

This route ascends the south eastern ridge on the Middle Teton's south side between the Ellingwood Couloir to the east, and the South Couloir to the west. It has now taken the name of one of its' first climbers, William Buckingham, famous for many first ascents in the West and Alaska.

Beautiful rock, few people, and 10 pitches make the Buckingham Ridge Route one of the best climbs of the Garnet Canyon area with superb views of the Ellingwood Coulior, Teewinot, Disappointment the Glacier Route on the upper trail.

The main face of the route includes four pitches of true rock climbing and more difficult lines can be taken along the left side of the main face.

Getting There:

Start on the south side of the Middle Teton from the Garnet Canyon Trial. Take a left-hand turn up the South Fork of Garnet Canyon around the eastern side the mountain. Go up the large canyon west of the Dike Pinnacle. You will behalf way up the canyon's north side.

Head toward the Ellingwood Couloir and go left onto the third to fifth class rock.

Route Description:
Begin up Ellingwood Couloir taking any tack - it's all easy and a blast. When you make it to the triangular central face there are a few options - the righthand eastern boundary is the easiest. Next there are three pitches of easy climbing through gullies leading to the upper snow field. Again, the easiest is to the right. Across the snowfield is the upper pitches. Some great crack climbing will take you to the south summit. On the far right-hand northeast side of this south summit, there are belay bolts for the final notch that leads north summit.

Essential Gear:

Alpine rack, nuts, cams, and runners, crampons & ice axe.

Visitor Comments

Re: Buckingham Ridge Posted by Xray Thu. November 12, 2009 03:41 am
Here are some basic photographs of lines to the summit. First is from the Grade: IIIA Climber's Guide to the Teton Range. Route A is the South Couloir; Buckingham Ridge is Route B, referred to as the Southeast Ridge; and Route C is the Ellingwood Couloir.

The second is from by buddy, Mark's book. I don't have the title - oops.
more photos

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