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MT Bearhat Mountain - Mt. climbing

mt. climbing icon
Lat: 48.665276
Lng: -113.762527

Marker owner: cnorris

Average user rating for this marker: 4

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(2 ratings)

MT Bearhat Mountain
Marker Description: Bearhat Mountain in Glacier National Park: Bearhat Mountain rises above Hidden Lake a short distance from Logan Pass. It is an easy one day climb from the pass with great views of jagged walls, splendid cliffs and densely wooded valleys.

Careful route finding is required to keep the East Face Route a scramble. The highest point is at the southwest end of the mountain, but many climbers choose to stop at the north summit.

The East Face of Bearhat is an attractive and moderately long day climb from Logan Pass. The distance to the summit is about four miles three of which are on trail. The vertical gain is about 2,600 feet. The downside to the climb is the hike back uphill from Hidden Lake on the return to Logan Pass.

Even though the climb is not rated as being very difficult, many parties do run into problems and several great adventures have been had on the face.

The route was first climbed by Norman Clyde on August 17, 1923.

Hike from Logan Pass to Hidden Lake via the trail (about 3 miles). Cross the outlet of the lake and move southward along the meadows until below the great rift that bisects the face. Start climbing upward here if you have not already in order to get above the first cliff band. Once above this cliff band, traverse further south around the lowest cliff band on the face.

East Face Bearhat Mountian.
The best approach makes an ascending traverse on the talus above the obvious cliffs in the vegetation to the left and below the first large cliff band on the face.

The East Face can be climbed without great difficulty (Glacier Park Class 2 & 3) almost anywhere south of the rift. Edwards notes that the further south one goes, the faster and easier the climbing.

A note for possible first time Glacier climbers – when climbing an overall low angled face like this, you will almost always find yourself on a ledge with a difficult appearing cliff above. With a little patience, an easier way through to the next ledge can nearly always be found by traversing to the left and / or right for a short distance.

This route ends on the north summit. The actual high point is further to the southwest, and can be reached from the north summit with some difficulties in descending into the gap between the north summit ridge and the high point. Edwards states that this gap can be reached without difficulty with a traverse around the south side at a level below the gap.

"Avoid the temptation to walk too far along the trail which is on the west side of Hidden Lake. If you look at a classic Bearhat photo from the Hidden Lake overlook, start up the scree before you get to the green vegetation and cliffs which cover the lower slopes. Aim to get above that vegetation and low cliffs. Much grief can be avoided if you do this.

Work your way to the south and up the scree to its highest point where it pours out of a gully. This gully will lead you up to the broad summit. The crux will come immediately once you get into the gully with a short 10 to 12 foot class 3 climb with excellent rock for hand and foot placements. Ascend the gully or pop out of it in places if you desire. Eventually you will be forced out of it as it holds snow in the upper portions until late in the season. "
Variable Snow Cover
Expect snow at least low on the face through July - some seasons more than others:

Essential Gear:
Ice axe might be needed if there is snow at the base of the face. A rope might be desired for those who are not yet comfortable with GNP class 3. Otherwise, no technical gear is needed.

Miscellaneous Info:
I have seen bear in the Hidden Lake basin. Rocky Mountain Goats abound in the Logan Pass area.

Be sure to use established trails to minimize the damage to the alpine meadows in this area!


7-Day Automobile/Vehicle Permit
Summer Rate - $25.00 May 1 - November 30
Winter Rate - $15.00 December 1 - April 30
Entrance fee for all persons traveling in a single, private, non-commercial vehicle (car/truck/van). Non-transferable.

7-Day Single Entry Permit
Summer Rate - $12.00 May 1 - November 30
Winter Rate - $10.00 December 1 - April 30
Per person entrance fee for a visitor traveling on foot, bicycle, motorcycle, or for individuals traveling together in a vehicle as a non-commercial, organized group. Non-transferable.

Glacier National Park Annual Pass
Valid for one year from month of purchase. Admits purchaser and passengers in a single, private, non-commercial vehicle, or the pass holder and his/her immediate family (spouse, children, parents) when entry is by other means (foot, bicycle). Non transferable, nonrefundable and does not cover camping fees.

Visitor Comments

Re: Bearhat Mountain Posted by dnorris Wed. September 22, 2010 08:54 pm
This is a spectacular peak with stunning views in all directions! Used the east face route and had no trouble finding class 3 and 4 rock. Caution this is Grizzly heaven. A great extended trip is to continue on down the south face above hidden lake to the saddle between bearhat and dragon's tail. Then descend the west side of that saddle into floral basin and on to Sperry glacier. After either traversing the glacier or the flat rock beds in front of it hike over como pass and out to lake Mcdonald. This is amazing but also long about 25 miles most of it off trail.

Re: Glacier National Park Posted by cnorris Mon. September 20, 2010 01:55 pm
Attached photos.
more photos

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